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Wine and Spirits
 Snifters
& Cigar Expert
insights on spirits and smokers By Richard Carleton Hacker THE PRICE OF TEQUILA IS RISING faster than the cost of gasoline. El Nino, a warehouse fire that destroyed 6,000 barrels of tequila, and rising demand have caused shortage of tequila and of the agave plant, its source. Two years ago, a mature plant was 60 cents; now it's $1.60. The cost of premium brands such as Porfidio and Patron has jumped up to 40 percent. Popular tequilas such as El Jimador and Sauza Cien Anos, whose labels once boasted "100% agave" have become mixtos, made of 51 percent agave, with sugars, caramel, and other flavorings rounding out the blend. (El Jimador's Anejo, unlike its blanco and reposado, retains it's 100 percent stature.) Other brands, such as Cazadores, have cut back back production, but less demanding distilleries are harvesting 4 - and 5 - year - old plants instead of the traditional 8 - 10 - year old growths. Those distillations lack rich, sugary nutrients that define premium tequilas. In spite of the agave shortage, some distillers are aging tequilas longer to create spirits that push into the super premium category. One of the best is Casa Noble's Crystal, a naturally fermented blanco made without adding yeast or sugar. The slower fermentation and triple distillation create a delicate, silky taste, with a crisp, clean aroma and finish. On the other end of the price and flavor spectrum, Casa Noble's Anejo Limited Reserve is like Cognac in texture. To be an anejo, a tequila must be aged at least a year, but Casa Noble's Anejo is barrel-aged five years. The uncharred barrels produce a medium-strength spirit with nuances of oak and vanilla and essences of violets and orchids.
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