TEQUILA RISES:
YOUR GUIDE TO THE FINEST TEQUILAS

JOE CUNNINGHAM. New York Post. New York, N.Y.: Feb 11, 2004. THE term tequila, believed to mean "lava hill" or "cutting rock" in the Nathual tongue of the Aztecs, dates back to the 16th century, when the Ticuila people founded the town of Tequila in Jalisco, Mexico.

They were the first to produce a fermented drink from the blue agave plant, which only grows in the mineral-rich, volcanic soil of western Mexico.

Its tough to argue that tequila has since gone on to become one of the most popular and versatile spirits in the world, yet few people perceive it as a gourmet liquor, along the lines of a brandy or Scotch.

"Tequila has been seen as a party drink, not sophisticated, but lately people have been drinking it out of cognac snifters," says David Gonzalez, director of marketing for the Casa Noble line of tequilas. "Its a very complex drink, and people are finally starting to learn that."

And as the general notion of tequila as a B-list tipple has started to shift, its become easier to find a whole range of top- shelf, 100% percent agave varieties tailored to the most discerning tastes provided you’re willing to pay to play.
No, were not being snobs here, we know there’s nothing wrong with splitting a fifth of old reliable Jose Cuervo Gold with friends.

But if you’re driven to seek out only the most sophisticated sips, these elite tequilas are for you just don’t spoil the taste with lime and salt!

Patron Silver PRICE: $50
Most of the truly premium tequilas are anejos, but some connoisseurs prefer the light, crystal-clear qualities of a joven or young tequila. Patron is produced by the company Siete Leguas (named after Pan-cho Villas trusty horse). "It has a very distinctive bottle design," says Emmons, "and it’s a cult favorite among tequila lovers, because it’s considered the best." Its priced up to fifty dollars a bottle in most stores. Har-rington also recommends the Chinaco Blanco (retails in the $40-$50 dollar range), a long- revered name among jovenes that has just returned to the market.

Seleccion Suprema (Herradura) PRICE: $300
You’ll pay up to $45 for a shot (and up to $300 per bottle) in most restaurants for this pricey potable. Bob Emmons, author of "The Book of Tequila: A Complete Guide" (Open Court Publishing, $18.95), describes it as "very smooth, with a definite wood flavor," but it can have "a bit too much of a bourbon taste, because bourbon companies sell their used oak barrels to Mexican tequila plants, and the wood retains some of the flavor." Its produced in the Hacienda San Jose del Refugio in Amatitan, located between Guadalajara and Tequila.

Casa Noble Reposado PRICE: $50
This tequila is such a star, it recently won an Academy Award - okay, so it was from the Mexican Tequila Academy, which conducts blind taste tests annually to determine the worlds best. Casa Noble, based just outside Tequila, Mexico, age their reposado the maximum time before it would officially be considered an anejo (364 days). "It has a very strong agave base, with elements of lime, grapefruit, vanilla, and a bit of caramel and coffee," says Gonzalez. Aged in French white oak, this liquors rapidly expanding its fan base.

Sauza Hornitos Reposado PRICE: $50
Though the name of this popular reposado may sound slightly risque, Sauza Hornitos is really as pure as it gets. "Traditionalists say you should make margaritas exclusively with blancos, but the American palate likes things a little sweeter. This brand has a little oak-aging that mellows out the taste, letting it blend easily with the other margarita ingredients," says Harrington. And its perfect for drinkers who want a premium tequila without breaking the bank; a nearly 2-liter, "party-sized" bottle will only set you back $50.

El Tesoro de Don Felipe Anejo PRICE: $50
Anejo is a term used to describe tequilas that have been aged for a number of years. El Tesoro de Don Felipe Anejo (in the $50 per bottle range) has an unusual bouquet, and a full-bodied, vegetative flavor. "This is a company that still does things the traditional way. They crush the agave with a big stone wheel and they roast it rather than steaming it," says Greg Harrington, director of beverage for B.R. Guest restaurants and master sommelier at Park Avenues popular Dos Caminos Mexican restaurant.

Jose Cuervos mass-produced mixto Gold is the worlds highest- selling tequila. But they’ve also made a big splash into the pricey waters of gourmet selections. The eye-poppingly tagged
Jose Cuervo 1800 Coleccion (it retails up to $1,000 per bottle) is aged in French oak, and has a rich, full-bodied taste, with floral and vanilla characteristics. There’s certainly much debate among tequila-freaks about the cost/benefit ratio of the difficult-to- find 1800 Coleccion, but when alls said and done, you’ll be hard- pressed to find an example with more snob-appeal.

There’s no worm in tequila, that’s Mezcal (which is made from a different variety of the agave plant.)

To check whether your tequila is 100% agave or a cheaper mixto, pour some in a glass, cover the top with your palm, and shake. If the drink takes on a rubbery, oily smell, you’re drinking a mixto.

The exact origin of the ritual of chasing tequila with salt and lime to make it more palatable is cloudy, but historically the use of salt and lime with food and drink in Mexico was widespread.

The agave plants "hearts" - which look like large pineapples - are slowly cooked for a period of time, and then crushed to extract fermentable sugars from the agave starches.
In order to be labeled tequila, the product must be produced in a specifically designated area of Mexico; in and around the town of Tequila.

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